FUEL SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING: Let's take some time to discuss some problems that you can have with your fuel system. THE CAR DIES WHILE RUNNING AT ROAD SPEED AND WILL NOT RESTART AND/OR ENGINE TURNS OVER BUT WON'T START OR IS FLOODED: Check to see if your fuel tank is empty. If not, wait 10 minutes and then just turn the ignition switch. If the car still won't start, open your air cleaner and see if the choke is working properly. The choke should be open when the engine is hot and closed when cold. Next, with the ignition switch off, hold the choke open and with a flashlight look into the carburetor throat. Then pull the throttle lever to wide open and see if gas squirts into the carburetor throat. If you don't see the gas squirting into the carburetor, then you could either have a plugged fuel filter or line. Remove and replace the fuel filters and then try to start the car. If the car still won't start, you could have a plugged line, worn fuel pump or a worn accelerator pump inside the carburetor. If gas is reaching the carburetor, keep the choke open, hold the gas pedal to the floor and then try to start the car. If it still refuses to start, check for disconnected vacuum hoses and perform a spark test. If you're getting a strong spark, do a compression test. If all cylinders test very low, you may have a very worn or broken timing belt or chain. Weak or no spark usually means the problem is with your electronic ignition module, coil or points and condenser in pre-1975 vehicles. It could also be, if your vehicle has any, a faulty feasible link or valve resister. Also, check, for any broken or burnt fuses. On fuel injection and some late model carburetor systems, your mechanic will have to test if fuel is properly reaching the cylinders. If it is not and the fuel pump, filters and line are okay, the control unit may be at fault. ENGINE CONTINUALLY STALLS, IS HARD TO START AND/OR HESITATES OR STALLS UNDER ACCELERATION: Replace the air filter if dirty, check for loose or cross spark plug wires, clean the carburetor and choke, get a tune-up, replace the fuel filters as well as all spark plug wires if any are worn. Also check for a loose carburetor as well as leaking vacuum hoses and intake manifold gasket. If the problem continues, perform a compression and spark test. Weak or no spark usually indicates a faulty ignition module or coil. If compression and spark are okay, have your mechanic reset the timing, adjust the carburetor and choke, test the fuel pump as well as adjust, if necessary, the idling speed and test for plugged injectors on fuel injection systems. A loose sensor connection or faulty sensory or EGR valve could also be the problem. The carburetor may need to be replaced or rebuilt if everything else is okay. The cold start injector valve could be the problem on injection systems that have one. If your car has an electronic fuel pump, the relay switch may be at fault. ENGINE DIES WHEN RUNNING AT ROAD SPEED OR CLIMBING HILLS BUT WHEN SPEED DROPS, THE CAR RUNS FINE: Replace all the fuel filters and if the problem continues, perform a tune-up. Should the problem persist, do a spark test. Weak or no spark could indicate a worn coil. If spark is okay, have your mechanic test the fuel pump and check for water in the fuel tank. It's usually a fuel pump problem if the engine dies after reaching a certain speed. BLACK SMOKE FROM TAIL PIPE WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING: Replace the air filter if dirty. Should the problem continue, perform a tune-up and have your mechanic adjust the carburetor. If the problem persists, the carburetor may need to be rebuilt or replaced. The cold start injector valve could be the problem on fuel injection systems that utilize one. It could also be a sensor problem on some cars.
GASOLINE SMELL IN CAR: Have your mechanic check for leaks around and on top of the carburetor as well as for leaks along fuel and return lines especially near the gas tank. Repair any leaks immediately.
